Introduction
Xerotigana is a traditional Cretan pastry that exemplifies the mastery of deep-fried dough, characterized by its intricate, rose-like spiraled shape. These delicate ribbons of dough are rolled extremely thin, fried until they achieve a shattered-glass crispness, and then submerged in a simmering honey syrup. Unlike heavier fried doughs, Xerotigana are prized for their light, airy structure and the complex floral notes provided by the thyme honey and cinnamon. Traditionally served at weddings and baptisms as a symbol of joy and abundance, they are finished with a dusting of toasted sesame seeds and crushed walnuts for a final layer of crunch and nuttiness.
Ingredients
The Dough
500g all purpose flour
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/4 cup raki or tsipouro (Greek grape spirit)
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
The Frying
Vegetable oil or light olive oil (for deep frying)
The Syrup and Garnish
1 cup honey (Thyme honey preferred)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 cinnamon stick
1 cup walnuts, finely crushed
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
Ground cinnamon (for dusting)
Preperation
Dough: Sift the all purpose flour into a large bowl and create a well in the center for the liquids.
Liquids: Measure out the raki or fresh orange juice and combine it with the olive oil and a pinch of salt.
Syrup: Combine the honey, sugar, and water in a small saucepan and have a cinnamon stick ready for infusion.
Toppings: Toast the sesame seeds lightly in a pan and crush the walnuts into fine pieces.
Station: Set up a deep frying pot with vegetable oil and prepare a wide tray with paper towels for draining.
Step by Step
The Dough: Mix flour with water, a small amount of olive oil, and a splash of raki or lemon juice to create a firm, smooth dough. Let it rest for at least an hour to make it easier to roll.
The Shaping: Roll the dough into paper-thin sheets using a rolling pin or a pasta machine. Cut the sheets into long, wide strips and carefully fold or coil them into rose-like shapes as they hit the hot oil.
The Frying: Heat a generous amount of vegetable oil in a deep pan. Fry the dough ribbons until they are crisp and a very light golden color, then drain them thoroughly on paper towels.
The Syrup: Combine honey, sugar, and water in a small pot and bring to a boil for a few minutes until slightly thickened. Dip each fried pastry into the warm syrup, ensuring it is well coated.
Finishing: Arrange the honey-soaked pastries on a platter and sprinkle generously with toasted sesame seeds, chopped walnuts, and a hint of cinnamon. Serve them at room temperature for the best crunch.
Origin:
Crete
Diet
Vegetarian, Contains Nuts
Equipment Needed:
Pasta machine, Deep frying pan, Two forks (for coiling), Slotted spoon.
Cultural History
Xerotigana derives its name from the Greek words for dry and frying, referring to the meticulous process of deep-frying thin ribbons of dough until they reach a shatteringly crisp consistency. While variations exist across the Aegean, the Cretan version is the most renowned, traditionally folded into intricate spirals or roses that require immense manual dexterity. These golden curls are submerged in a honey-based syrup and dusted with cinnamon and walnuts, serving as a symbol of fertility and joy. Because of their elaborate preparation, they remain the essential celebratory sweet for weddings and baptisms, representing the sweetness of life and the preservation of ancient Cretan pastry traditions.
Yiayias Secret
The secret to paper-thin, crispy Xerotigana is adding a shot of Tsikoudia or Ouzo to the dough; the alcohol evaporates quickly during frying, creating those signature tiny bubbles and a light, airy crunch. When it comes to the honey syrup, it must be lukewarm when the hot pastry is dipped, ensuring it coats the spirals without making them soggy. Finally, be generous with the topping of toasted crushed walnuts and plenty of cinnamon while the syrup is still tacky so everything sticks perfectly to the golden loops.
Substitution Notes
The Dough: If you do not have raki or tsipouro, you can substitute it with vodka or white vinegar. The alcohol is crucial for creating the characteristic bubbles and crisp texture in the fried dough.
The Sweetener: While thyme honey is the traditional choice for the syrup, wildflower honey or orange blossom honey are great alternatives. For a vegan version, a thick agave syrup or a sugar-based simple syrup can be used, though the flavor will be less complex.
The Toppings: If walnuts are unavailable, toasted sesame seeds or crushed pistachios provide a similar crunch. You can also add a dusting of ground cloves alongside the cinnamon for a warmer spice profile.
The Frying Oil: A neutral vegetable oil or sunflower oil is best for deep frying to ensure the flavor of the dough and honey shines. Avoid using extra virgin olive oil for the frying process as its strong flavor and lower smoke point can overwhelm the pastry.
Citrus Flavor: If you lack fresh oranges for the syrup, lemon zest and juice can be used to provide the necessary acidity to balance the sweetness of the honey.
Wine Pairings
Xerotigana is a delicate and crisp pastry defined by its intricate folds, a deep honey soak, and the crunchy texture of toasted sesame seeds and walnuts.
Dessert Wine (The Traditional Choice): A luscious Vinsanto from Santorini is the ideal partner, as its notes of dried apricots and caramel mirror the honey syrup. A Muscat of Samos also works beautifully, offering a floral sweetness that complements the fried dough without becoming cloying.
Sparkling Wine: A Moscato d'Asti provides a light effervescence and lower alcohol content that lifts the palate from the richness of the oil and honey. The peach and sage notes in the wine provide a fresh counterpoint to the toasted nuts.
The Contrast: A glass of Tsipouro or a chilled Mastika liqueur offers a botanical and pine-scented contrast that cuts right through the intense sweetness, highlighting the aromatic cinnamon often sprinkled on top.
Storage Instructions
Refrigeration: Store the Xerotigana in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days to maintain their crispness. If you prefer to refrigerate them, they will last up to 2 weeks, but ensure the container is sealed tightly to prevent them from absorbing moisture or odors.
Freezing (Cooked): You can freeze the fried dough strips without the honey syrup for up to 2 months. Place them in a sturdy, airtight container with parchment paper between layers. Thaw at room temperature and crisp them up in a warm oven briefly before drizzling with fresh syrup and nuts.
Freezing (Unbaked): The raw dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored in the freezer for up to 1 month. Thaw the dough in the refrigerator overnight before rolling, shaping, and frying.
Reheating: These are best served at room temperature. If they have softened, you can place them in an oven at 150°C for a few minutes to restore some of the crunch, though this works best if they have not yet been coated in syrup. For honey coated Xerotigana, avoid reheating as it will make the pastry soggy.
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